At first glance, there seems to be a whole lotta nuttin' on the 94 miles of US Highway 95 between Needles and Blythe. There are no real "towns" along this part of 95, although there are a cluster of small communities next to the River. Lake Havasu Road is the only paved road going east to the River between Needles and Highway 62. 

 Highway 96 south of Needles

A series of unpaved roads provides access to some of the other resorts along the River, and serve the Chemehuevi Indian Reservation.  While the river distance between some of the resorts may be 10 miles, you can literally drive 100 miles overland to get from one to the other.  Some of the named unpaved roads are Trails End Camp Road, Whipple Point Road, and Bowman's Wash Road.  Because these roads are unpaved and because they are contained within or pass through the Reservation, it is always best to check local conditions and restrictions before venturing very far on them.

Travelers on US 95 going north or south are hell-bent on getting somewhere fast and it can seem to take forever to make any progress, especially if you are stuck behind a big rig.  But beware the 95 - It is a CHP Officers equivalent of heaven, with lead-footed drivers being like fish in a barrel.  There are plenty of long straight-aways on the road, so relax, take your time, and listen to some soothing music to help your ride.  Better yet, stop and explore the area.  Wide-open BLM land is common here, providing the camper/adventurer or hiker/rock hound with endless opportunities to step out of the car and explore.  In this chapter we will do just that, and find out what awaits.

From Needles US Highway 95 heads in a generally southern route, while the Colorado River veers eastward away from the highway, but never very far. The topography is open desert interspersed with smaller mountain ranges.  Short passes with some elevation gain interrupt the long open spaces.  Dirt roads lead mostly westward into BLM land, and washes and drainages bisect the open spaces.  The five-mile long 10 mile wide Chemehuevi Valley is found east of 95 just south of Needles.  The valley extends into Arizona.  The Chemehuevi Indian Reservation occupies much of the valley territory.  The Chemehuevi Mountains are located northwest of the Indian Reservation.  The range is about 15 miles in length, and the high point is 3,694 feet at Chemehuevi Peak.

A few miles out of town "Needles International" is on your right.  It is also known as the Chemehuevi Valley Airport.  The Chemehuevi Valley and Chemehuevi Indian Reservation are on the left (east) side of US Highway 95.  It is a very sparsely inhabited area with the exception of Havasu Lake.  The lower Chemehuevi Valley is subject to temporary motor vehicle closure by the BLM to protect the desert tortoise.

POINT OF INTEREST - MYSTIC MAZE

The Mystic Maze in an archeological site about 12 miles south of Needles.  The purpose of the precise arrangement of rocks in geometric patterns over a wide area is debated, but it is known that the Mohave Indians created it.   One school of thought assigns an agricultural purpose, while another claims that Mohave warriors would stop here after battle for spiritual purification.  Regardless of the purpose, the Mystic Maze is a site of great religious significance to the Mohave Indians, and is formally listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Sometime during the twenties, Fred Harvey commissioned artist H. Betts to paint a series of pictures of the Mystic Maze, and the paintings hung on Harvey House walls for a period of time.

Nineteen miles south of Needles Lake Havasu Road intersects 95 and goes east to the River. 

SIDE TRIP TO HAVASU LAKE

Havasu Lake Road goes east from Highway 95 about 10 miles, and is the main paved route to the California side of Lake Havasu.  The Havasu Landing Resort is within the Chemehuevi Indian Reservation and offers a marina, 2 boat ramps with a 24-hour gas dock, camping, boating, fishing and swimming, a general store and a casino.  Hourly shuttles take visitors over to the Arizona side, where they can tour the London Bridge and visit Lake Havasu City.  The Resort also offers a laundromat, showers, a dump station, an RV park and a campground.  Not to mention the casino and restaurant.  For more information visit their web site at http://www.havasulanding.com/.  The main office number is 760-858-4593.

Black Meadow and Havasu Palms Resorts are south of Havasu Landing on the California side of Lake Havasu.  Access is north from Highway 62 to the south.  These resorts will be discussed further on another side trip.

We continue our road trip south on Highway 95 from Lake Havasu Road.

The Old Woman Mountains Wilderness Area is about 35 miles south and west of Needles. 

SIDE TRIP TO THE OLD WOMAN MOUNTAINS

Old Woman Mountains

The mountains extend about 35 miles in a north-south direction, and approximately 28 miles in an east-west direction.  Access is via several unpaved BLM roads off Highway 95.  The Old Woman Statue, a rock formation resembling an older woman at about 5,000 feet elevation, is the source for the name of the range. 

In 1975 the remains of a meteor crater were found here, and hence named the Old Woman Meteor.  The crater is the second largest in the US.  The meteorite itself is on display at the Desert Information Center in Barstow.  The Wilderness is in a transition zone between the Lower Colorado and Mojave Deserts, and encompasses many different habitat types. Creosote bush scrub dominates the lower elevations, grading into mixed desert scrub at middle elevations with juniper-pinyon woodland at the higher elevations. Catclaw acacia, cheesebush, desert lavender, little-leaf ratany, and desert almond characterize the dry washes. Wildlife is typical for the Mojave Desert; including a permanent population of bighorn sheep, mule deer, bobcat, cougar, coyote, black-tailed jackrabbit, ground squirrels, kangaroo rats, quail, chuckar, roadrunners, rattlesnakes, and several species of lizards. Numerous raptor species are likely to be found in the area; including prairie falcons, red-tailed hawks, golden eagles, Cooper's hawks, American kestrels, as well as several species of owls.

The washes and canyons provide good habitat for several species of songbirds, and the bird densities and diversity is further enhanced by the presence of 24 springs and seeps. The bajadas provide excellent desert tortoise habitat; 49,683 acres of the wilderness area have been identified as critical habitat for the threatened desert tortoise.

The desert tortoise (Gopherus agassizii) has been around for millions of years. 

Desert Tortoise

Their geographical range is the Mojave and Sonoran deserts of southeastern California, southern Nevada, western Arizona and Mexico.  The desert tortoise is an herbivore that can attain a length of 8 to 15 inches (carapace length).  They typically live to 80 years, with some surpassing 100 years.  They seek water only to drink or bathe - they cannot swim.  They get most of the moisture they need from the plants they eat, but are also known to excavate small basins to collect rainwater, where they can be seen awaiting an imminent thunderstorm.  They burrow small dens into the ground, where they hibernate during the winter months.  Approximately 95% of their life is spent in these dens.  Females lay a clutch of 4-8 eggs in May, June and July, but only after reaching 15-20 years of age.  Only a few hatchlings out of one hundred will reach maturity.  It has been estimated that desert tortoise populations have been reduced by upwards of 90% in some areas since the 1980's.  The primary threats are predation of hatchlings by ravens and other animals, destruction of habitat, grazing and off-road use.  A lethal upper respiratory disease has been seen more and more frequently of late.  Highway accidents take more desert tortoise lives every year.  Grazing and off-road use can result in destruction of their burrows, resulting in instant death or slow suffocation.  It is unlawful to touch, harm, harass, or collect wild desert tortoises.   However, there are groups and associations in both California and Arizona that offer for adoption desert tortoise that have been found in urban areas, that are unwanted captives, or have been confiscated from illegal collections.  A new Desert Tortoise Recovery Office (DTRO) has been established to address population declines of America's favorite reptile.

Hiking, horseback riding, hunting, camping, rock hounding, photography, and backpacking are examples of activities that can be enjoyed in this wilderness. The wilderness boundary was drawn to exclude five non-wilderness corridors or "cherry stems", which provide vehicle access to the interior of the wilderness area.  Note:  The Wilderness Area is clearly marked, and mechanized or motorized vehicles are NOT permitted in a Wilderness.  Stay on marked roads and trails at all times.

The Black Metal Mine is reached through the Old Woman Mountains Wilderness. The trail is fairly short, and its only difficulty comes from the deep, loose sand in Browns Wash. The trail is a spur that begins near the intersection of Skeleton Pass Road. It crosses a sandy bajada, climbing gradually toward the mountains before entering Browns Wash. The trail travels through a wider valley before leaving the wash to finish at the Black Metal Mine. The remains of an old cabin, a deep timber-lined shaft, and a wooden loading hopper can be seen at the mine site.  Want to see more?  Please visit my friends at www.dzrtgrls.com.

Four-wheel, high-clearance vehicles may be needed on many of the access roads, particularly after inclement weather.  The unpaved roads can be rough, muddy and sandy.   The Old Woman Cave is located on the eastern side of the mountains.  The cave is about 10 feet long and 6 feet deep near the top of an exfoliating granite monolith.  A precarious climb leads to the cave, which contains petroglyphs in wavy lines, triangles, and rectangular and circular shapes.  Oddly, bighorn sheep and anthropomorphic figures are not found here.

The Old Woman Mountains are home to the old town site of Chubbuck.   Charles Chubbuck founded the town site and mining operations in the 1920's to provide a whiting agent for his cement operations.  The population of Chubbuck was as high as 400 people in the 20's and 30's, but was eventually abandoned in the 1940's.   

Chubbuck flourished in its heyday.  Besides the mining structures, as many as 40 buildings were built including a company store, a post office and a school, and residences for the 24 workers and their families.  It was not uncommon for visitors to fly in, landing on the straight gravel roads.  The one-room school opened in 1932 and taught children from the first through the eighth grades.  The 1.8 acres that the school sat on are still owned by the Needles School District.  Working in a mine in the desert can be a hot, grueling ordeal in the summer.  Sales to workers of little-known Eastside Beer equaled all other sales at the company store.

We resume our journey south on Highway 95.

SIDE TRIP TO THE WHIPPLE MOUNTAINS WILDERNESS AREA

The Whipple Mountains Wilderness area is about 50 miles south and east of Needles. The mountains were named after Amiel W. Whipple, a Lieutenant with the U. S. Topopgraphical Engineers, a member of the Mexican Boundary Commission, and of the Pacific Railroad Survey.  Our Lord's Candle (Yucca whipplei) is also named after Whipple.   

The rugged mountain range is adjacent to the river.  The wilderness is comprised of mountains over 4,000 feet in elevation and a 14-mile long wash that dissects them.  Spires, cliffs, natural bridges and deep canyons make the area a visual treat.  Whipple Wash has cliffs nearly 1,000 feet high, which has been compared with the canyons in Zion National Park.

There are many reference materials on the internet that discuss the unique geological make up of the Whipple Mountains.  If you are anyone but a geologist you may find the discussions a little dry.  An example is a paper by the Geological Society of America entitled "Structural and Stratigraphic Development of the Whipple-Chemehuevi Detachment Fault System, Implications for the Geometrical Evolution of Domal and Basinal Low-Angle Normal Faults."  I could not find this paper on any best-seller list, but it was still interesting to read (for a short time). 

Access to the eastern boundary of the wilderness is by four-wheel drive vehicle on a power line access road.  Black Meadow Landing Road is less than a mile from Parker Dam. Take this paved road 6 miles to the dirt road that leads to Havasu Palms. Follow this route for 2.1 miles to the power line road, which for the next 8 miles forms the eastern boundary of the wilderness.

We continue our road trip south on Highway 95 to Vidal Junction.

Vidal Junction is a major intersection of US Highway 95 with State Highway 62.  Twentynine Palms is about 60 miles west, and the River/Arizona border is about 20 miles east.  There are gas stations, fast food restaurants and convenience stores at the junction, and a California State Agriculture Inspection Station for westbound travelers on the east side of the intersection. 

SIDE TRIP EAST ON 62 TO RIVER COMMUNITIES AND RESORTS

There is a cluster of small communities in California off Highway 62 just before it crosses into Arizona.   

These communities make up the California side of the famed (or infamous, depending on your point of view) Parker Strip.  The Parker Strip is well known as a recreation haven for water sport enthusiasts.  A string of resorts and parks along both sides of the river entice visitors from far and wide, resulting in huge crowds during the summer months.  While some view the activities as youthful indulgence, the economic impact of the activities can't be denied.  On the California side, Big River is a community of 1,200 right along the River.  It is about 57 miles south of Needles.  The population increased by over 80% during the 90's.  

The Rio Del Sol R. V. Haven is located in Big River.  They have daily, weekly, monthly, and 6-month seasonal rates ranging from $30 daily for a site that includes cable and electric, to $900 per month for a fully furnished mobile home.  Their web address is http://www.riodelsolrvhaven.com/.  The phone number is 760-665-2981, or they can be contacted via E-Mail at riodelsol1@aol.com.

The Big River Inn Motel has 22 rooms with air conditioning, an outdoor pool, cable TV and some kitchenettes, but apparently no room phones or Internet service.  No pets allowed.  The address was listed as 150383 (six numbers?) Delrey Drive. No on-line reservation site was listed, but the listed phone number was 760-665-9440.

The Big River RV Park is six miles west of Parker on the California side.  They offer 182 grassy sites with 30 and 50 amp hook ups, showers and rest rooms, laundry, a club house, a launch ramp and swimming area, and boat storage.  Rates range from $30 per day for a standard camp or RV site with hookups to $100 per day for a premium park model rental unit.  Their web site is http://www.bigriverrvpark.com/, and their phone number is 760-665-2055.  Reservation inquiries can be made via E-Mail at administration@bigriverrvpark.com.

Earp, California is situated along Highway 62 right where it crosses into Arizona.  

It is named after legendary lawman Wyatt Earp.  Earp discovered several veins of gold and copper in the nearby Whipple Mountains, and worked his claims earnestly in the early 1900's.  There are several old pictures of Earp on display in the Post Office.

The Riverland RV Park in Earp has 64 full hookup sites, a recreation hall, laundry facilities, boat and RV storage, and a boat launching dock.  Their web site had no reservation link.  The address is 3401 Parker Dam Road, and the phone number is 760-663-3733.

Highway 62 continues eastward, crossing the river and entering Arizona just past Earp, while Parker Dam Road heads northward along the river on the California side. 

The California side of the famous "Parker Strip" is loaded with recreational facilities, most of them operated by BLM or by concessionaires for the BLM.  RV Resorts, KOA campgrounds, mobile home parks, storage yards and day-use areas jostle for position along the river's edge.  Here you will see million-dollar Spanish villas shoulder-to-shoulder with dilapidated trailer parks.  The river below Parker Dam is relatively narrower and shallower than along other stretches, indicating a particular prevalence of the type of watercraft in use here.  You will see more jet boats, inboard motor craft, jet skis and other personal watercraft than outboard engines.

Parker Dam Road continues northward about 12 miles to the dam. 

Parker Dam

This roadway is known as the "Thread of Life", a back-country byway that highlights scenic, natural, historic and prehistoric features along the road.  Depending on what type of vehicle you have you can drive across the dam to the Arizona side, making this a loop-trip.  Concrete K-rails are placed parallel to the entrance of the dam road, coincident with the narrowness of the lanes atop the dam. 

To be able to cross the dam your vehicle must be able to squeeze between the two k-rails. 

Parker Dam gates

A sign on both sides says "no RV's, trailers or trucks", which is somewhat misleading.  Regular-sized trucks can maneuver between the k-rails (with about 3 inches to spare on either side).  Skid marks and chinks on the concrete k-rails are indicative of many tight squeezes through them.  If you are unsure whether your vehicle is too wide (I was with my Ford F-150), you can pull over just before crossing the dam and observe the types of oncoming vehicles negotiating through the maze.    

A junction road on the California side just before the dam skirts around it, and continues northward to the Copper Basin Dunes OHV Area and two other resorts on the west side of Lake Havasu.

The Copper Basin Dunes OHV Area is operated by the BLM.  The staging areas and trailheads are about 12 miles north of Earp and across from the Big Bend Resort.  The 1,275 acre "open area" offers access to sand dunes, trails throughout the bajadas, and up into the nearby canyons.

Black Meadow Landing offers a full range of services and amenities, from a hotel to kitchen cabins to campsites.  It has 350 full-service RV sites, boat slips and a golf course.  The telephone number is 760-633-4901.  Their web site is http://www.blackmeadowlanding.com/, and E-Mail reservations can be made at reservations@blackmeadowlanding.com.

Black Meadow Landing advertisement

Havasu Palms Resort is the oldest resort on the lake. Originally called Roads End Camp and developed by miners, it was purchased by Walter and Caroline Johnson in 1967, only to have the land annexed into the Chemehuevi Indian Reservation in 1974.  Today a concessionaire for the Chemehuevi Indian Tribe runs the resort. The dock area stands within a spacious natural harbor where long-term residents make use of the boat slips. A small dockside store contains limited food items, beverages, and beer. Fishing tackle and licenses are available during limited hours when the store is open to the public. A courtesy dock offers boat slips for temporary visitors. There is a boat launch ramp for use by patrons.   Access is 21 miles from Parker Dam via Parker Dam Road, eight miles of which are paved, 13 miles unpaved. There is a restaurant and bar (which is seasonal and has limited hours), a large mobile-home village, restrooms and a dump station. An unpaved landing strip is 4,200 feet in length.  The phone number is 602-453-5999.

The Thread of Life roadway area is also a prime example of the impact that a dam has on the local environment.  Dams prevent the seasonal flows, which had a positive impact on the environment but a negative impact on human activity.  The seasonal flows helped to diffuse and disperse the salt in the water and soil.  Immediately below Parker Dam the soil has become so saline that the salt looks like snow on the ground.  Hardly any vegetation grows in the salt-saturated soil, and what does is non-native.  The cottonwoods and willows, so vital to the native animal population, are gone.  So are the native animals.  There is nowhere near enough rainfall to disperse the salt, so it continues to accumulate.

While enough water could be released from behind the dam to mimic nature, the impact below would be questionable.  With so many houses and businesses crowded shoulder-to-shoulder along the river bank, the immediate impact of a release would be flooding through the man-made structures.  This in turn could release a host of man-made materials, liquids and waste products that could in fact be more harmful to the environment than the salt.  And it is unlikely that enough water could be made to flow over the worst areas to make a difference, because of impervious surfaces (roads, parking lots), lot grading and other human activity intended to keep the river within its' banks. 

It can likely be safely assumed that this area will never be returned to a natural state even if there were no man-made structures, as long as the dam is intact.  That is the trade-off for the human presence here, and why the revegetation effort of various groups is so important.

Back on Highway 95, we continue south toward Blythe.

From Highway 62, Highway 95 continues southward toward Blythe.  A couple of miles south of Highway 62 the railroad crosses the highway at the site of the old community of Vidal.

POINT OF INTEREST - VIDAL

There is very little left of the original town of Vidal, save some forlorn, weather-beaten buildings and traces of the old road to Parker. 

J. F. Heacock building in Vidal

The town once served as a railroad stop and water refill point for the Santa Fe railroad.  The first settler was an emigrant named Hansell Brownell, and he named the area after his son-in-law.  Wyatt Earp and his wife Josephine reportedly maintained a cottage in Vidal, while Earp worked his gold mining claims along the river.  The old Parker Road can still be followed for a few miles either way for the intrepid traveler. 

Old Parker Road in Vidal

The remains of Vidal are along Main Street about 2 miles south of the intersection of Highway 62.   Abandoned buildings still stand along "Main Street".

Back on Highway 95 heading south, a cluster of populated areas along the River north of Blythe are collectively called "Colorado River Communities".  While grouped together by census, each population center maintains a unique name and identity.   

River view north of Blythe

The skies are so clear here at night, and with little in the way of artificial light contamination, it's a great place to star gaze.  In fact the area is frequented by a local Blythe astronomy group called the Colorado River Astronomy Club.  The club was started under the auspices of Palo Verde College.  They meet monthly usually on a Saturday night, at pre-announced places along the river.  The stargazing events are free, and everyone is invited.  For more information and notices of meeting events, contact their website at www.earthlink.net/~astroclub/.

The Lost Lake Resort is 31 miles north of Blythe and right along the River.  It is also known as Lost Lake and Lost Lake Landing.  The State Fish and Game Department has been studying Elf Owls near here.   The resort has full hookups for RV's, a general store, a boat launch, gas and rest rooms.  Their web page says that advance reservations by credit card are required.  The phone number listed is 760-664-4413.  Their E-Mail is lostlakeresort@redrivernet.com. 

The Twin Palms Resort has a store, boat launching facility, 15 sites with water and electric service, and 8 sites with full hookups (a total of 23).  Most (if not all) of the sites have shade cabanas.  No dogs are allowed.   Their web site address is www.twinpalms-resort.com.  Their web site says all reservations are made only by phone.  The phone number is 888-886-8377, and their E-Mail address is coloradolivin@yahoo.com.

Aha Quin is yet another resort along this stretch of the river.  It is also known as River Bend Lodge. 

Aha Quin Resort

Aha Quin boasts a landing strip (1CA4) in addition to a picnic area and playgrounds and barbecue facilities, a store and a restaurant.  There are no hookups for RV's.  No web site for Aha Quin or River Bend Lodge was found.

POINT OF INTEREST - BLYTHE INTAGLIOS

The Blythe Intaglios are off Highway 95 about 15 miles north of Blythe. 

Blythe Intaglio.  Courtesy MCSQL7.

Intaglios are giant symbols on the ground made by Native-Americans.  Desert pavement was removed to create the shapes and reveal the much lighter colored ground underneath.  There are six human and animal figures in three different locations here.  Recent human damage has resulted in the fencing off of some of the figures.  The figures are best seen from the air, but hale and hearty hikers can gain elevation on some of the hills nearby to get better pictures.  Highway 95 continues southward toward Blythe, and passes the original diversion dam in this area.  The desert gives way to more and more agricultural uses as we head into Blythe.

Downstream River Mileage Chart Needles to Blythe (California Side)