The distance from Lake Havasu City to Topock, Arizona is only about 40 miles.  Our route will take us northward along State Highway 95 to Interstate 40, then westward to Topock.  Along the way we will explore the river and surrounding environs. 

 

River access along this area is isolated to a few put-ins to the north and south, primarily around the Topock and Lake Havasu City areas.  Owing to the river flow, most non-motorized boat traffic is from north to south.  South of Needles the nature of the river changes as it enters the Topock Gorge area.  Flat, riparian shoreline gives way to spectacular rock formations within the Gorge.  Highway 95 veers northeastward from Lake Havasu City away from the river, with few access points along the way.

 

 

 

Highway 95 north of Lake Havasu City.

 

A few miles out of town we come to Desert Hills, Arizona, a census-designated place (CDP) of some 2,183 residents.  The Lake Havasu City Airport is on the east side of Highway 95 just past Desert Hills.  After the airport, we are back into pristine desert.  Castle Rock Bay Road intersects Highway 95 just past the airport and takes a path to Castle Rock Bay on the river.  Castle Rock Bay is within the southern-most boundary of the Havasu National Wildlife Refuge.  The Bay is used frequently as a haul-out point for canoeists and kayakers.  Several dirt roads nearby lead to the shoreline, but there are no improved facilities here.

 

A company called Western Arizona Canoe and Kayak Outfitters (Wacko's) offers kayak tours of the Gorge from Lake Havasu City.  They will transport you to Topock Marina at I-40, provide you with a kayak and fundamental kayak instructions, outfit you with paddles, coolers, gloves, dry bags and Personal Floatation Devices (PFD's), send you on your way, and pick you up at Castle Rock.  All you need is lunch and water (or other favorite beverage).  The rates are $45 per adult, and children under ten are half price.  More information is available at their web site, www.azwacko.com.

 

Further northeast from the airport, there is a marked BLM LTVA area on the east side of Highway 95.  There are no facilities here, but there are indications of use.  The Havasu BLM office manages 1.4 million acres of public land in the Mohave and Sonoran Deserts, along the river, and the uplands to the east. 

 

Highway 95 continues northeastward, past the small community of Lake Havasu Heights, and intersects with Interstate 40.  We head west in I-40 toward Topock.  

 

SIDE TRIP TO HAVASU NWR

 

The Havasu National Wildlife Refuge (NWR) protects 30 miles of river shoreline between Needles and Lake Havasu City.  The Refuge is managed by the U. S. Fish and Wildlife Service, and was established in 1941. 

 

The Havasu NWR encompasses a total of 37,515 acres, of which 32% is designated wilderness.  Plants and animals co-exist with humans in a precarious balancing act, often with competing priorities.  The mission of the Fish and Wildlife Service is to protect and restore threatened or endangered animals and habitats, accommodating human recreation all the while.  That is not an easy task.  Many of the same threatened birds and animals that exist in other Refuges along the river live here as well.  The introduction of invasive exotic vegetation like Salt Cedar is a problem here as well, and NWR staff work hard at controlling or removing it, and replacing it with native vegetation like cottonwoods and willows.  Another primary goal is to assure suitable habitat for the many migratory birds that stop here on the way north or south.  The NWR is divided into three distinct north-to-south segments:  The Topock Marsh Unit, the Topock Gorge Unit, and the Havasu Wilderness Unit. 

 

The Topock Marsh Unit is north of I-40 and consists of 4,000 acres of natural and restored marshland.  The Marsh is actually a series of small lakes where thousands of migrating birds stop to rest and feed (some stay until spring; some never leave).  Consequently it is very popular in the winter months when birders come to visit varieties of geese, herons, egrets and other water birds.  River water is provided by way of an intake canal at the northern end of the Marsh.  Boating, fishing, canoeing and wildlife watching are available at the Marsh, but no swimming.  No-wake boating is required near the Five-Mile Landing concession.  Restricted boating areas at the Marsh and throughout the NWR are marked with signs and buoys.  Overnight mooring of watercraft is available only at the concession, where slips can be rented at reasonable prices.  Free boat launches are located in the North Dike and Catfish Paradise areas of the Marsh.  Catfish Paradise also offers a fishing Pier.  RV and tent camping is available at the Five-Mile Landing concession.  Fires are allowed only at the concession.  At the Pintail Slough Management Unit in the northern reaches of Topock Marsh, planted wheat, millet and other natural food provide sustenance for the migratory birds.  Hunting at Topock Marsh is prohibited between October 1^st and the last day of the local quail hunting season each year.  Only certain areas of the Marsh are open to vehicular traffic, but hikers will enjoy a large number of foot trails throughout. 

 

People wanting to boat, canoe or kayak the twenty miles of Topock Gorge usually begin their trek at Moabi Regional Park.  The Park is actually in California, about 11 miles southeast of Needles.  Group and individual campsites are available along 2 ½ miles of shoreline.  The Park has 35 full hook-up RV sites, 120 water/electric sites, and unlimited tent camping.  Rates range from $15 per night per vehicle for a general (no hook-up) site and $22 per vehicle per night for a peninsula site, to $200 per RV per month.  Discount and long-term rates are also available.  More information is available from their web site, http://www.moabi.com/, or by calling 760-326-3831.  Their E-Mail is Moabi@ctaz.com.

 

Topock Gorge begins about four miles south of Moabi Regional Park.  Many people begin their adventure from the park, and arrange for return transportation from Castle Rock near Lake Havasu City.  Sailboats may make the tour upstream.  A canoe or kayak tour will take a minimum of 5 ½ hours of paddle time.  Along the way visitors go through some of the most spectacular scenery on the Lower Colorado. 

 

Topock Gorge.  Courtesy Becky Parker

 

The Colorado River narrows significantly where it enters the Gorge, and non-motorized boaters share the narrow waterway with motorized watercraft of all types.  This can lead to congestion and accidents.  If you are using a non-motorized craft, it is suggested that you make yourself conspicuous by using bright clothing, flags or pennants, or a brightly colored hull.  Water skiing is not permitted in the Gorge, but jet boats, inboards and outboards, and river tour boats will generally tear past you in the main channel.  All of the inlets, bays, coves and adjacent waterways in the Gorge are no-wake areas.  These make for peaceful stop-over areas for those making overnight two or three day trips.  The Gorge is marked with colorful place names like Blankenship Bend, Devil's Elbow, Picture Rock, Hidden Bay and Cathedral Rock.  Indian petroglyphs are said to be found on Picture Rock.  

 

The land on either side of the River is part of the Needles Wilderness Area, meaning you will see no motorized vehicles on shore.  You might be fortunate to see wild four-legged residents of the Wilderness, including Bighorn Sheep and wild burros and horses.

 

Here you can almost feel cut off from the world, surrounded by volcanic rocks rising into dramatic spires, turrets and needles.  The rusty rock, the greenish-blue water, the golden beach and the green shoreline make for a riot of natural color.   The scenery is so spectacular that the happening upon of wildlife becomes an added bonus.  At Devil's Elbow, the red rock walls soar hundreds of feet above the water.  A passing jet boat sends waves of water and sound pinging back and forth between the sheer cliffs.  The cliffs are pock marked with caves and slot canyons at some locations, leading to more exploration.  Canoeing through Topock is like floating through a painting.  The Sand Bar is a named place where boaters haul up and congregate during warmer weather.  It can be a crazy-quilt of machinery and people amidst a cacophony of roaring boat engines.  But off-season it is a tranquil, serene place.  

 

 

For the fisherman, the cool, deep waters of Topock Gorge support a variety of game fish ranging from bluegill, largemouth bass, striped bass and trout.  An outfit called Captain Doyle's Funfishing Guide Service offers fishing boat tours of Topock Gorge.  Ticket sales and the boarding area are located at Topock Marina.  For more information visit their web site (http://www.funfishing.net/), or by calling 866-284-3262.  If you plan to fish Topock, you should familiarize yourself with Razorback Sucker and Bonytail Chub.  Both are endangered and can be caught here.  If you do catch one, you should take a picture of it, release it, and report the catch to a ranger.

 

Back on I-40, we continue westward and reach the final destination of our tour, the town of Topock and the adjacent community of Golden Shores.

 

Topock is located on part of the original Route 66.  It is just across the state line from Needles California, but really isn't much of a town any more.  While nearby Golden Shores boasts a population of about 3,000, Topock began declining with the advent of the Interstate system and the decline of Route 66.  About the best-known thing about Topock that is still in business is Hooch's River Grill.  However, back in the 1800's it was a bustling community along the river next to the wooden railroad bridge.  The railroad bridge was replaced by the Red Rock Bridge in 1890.  So the railroad had a bridge across the river, but auto travelers had to use the Needles Ferry to get across.  But in 1914, a major flood knocked out ferry service.  Planks were placed across the rail on the Red Rock Bridge and autos shared the span for a while, alternating crossings with the railroad.  In 1916 autos would finally get their own crossing when the Trails Arch Bridge was built.  Problem was, the Trails Arch Bridge was a one-lane span, and autos and trucks took turns going east or west.  The bridge also had a weight limitation problem of eleven tons, which began to be a problem during World War II.  When engineers for the Santa Fe Railroad built a new bridge in 1945, the rails were removed from and repairs made to the Red Rock Bridge, and traffic used it for a while.  In 1966 I-40 was built, and a new, four-lane steel girder bridge was built.  The Red Rock Bridge was finally dismantled in 1988.  What happened to the Trails Arch Bridge, you ask?  It's still there.  Gas and utility lines are supported by the gleaming white girders of the Trails Arch Bridge.

 

 

 Trails Arch Bridge

 

Trails Arch bridge in the '30's.  Courtesy John Barnier

 

While Topock is in decline, Golden Shores bustles in comparison.  But it is also small, and the town snoozes during the summer months after the snow birders leave.  There are also true "sun-bunnies" here, people who stay year round or come during the summer months to enjoy their watercraft, night fishing, hunting, or trips to the bright lights of Laughlin.  There is only one elementary school in town and no hospital.  The annual Route 66 Fun Run ends in Golden Shores each May.  The big news for 2007 was the opening of Uncle Bill's Roadhouse Restaurant and bar.  The folksy nature of the town can be appealing.

 

Five Mile Landing is a concession-operated enterprise managed by the Fish and Wildlife Service.  It is located on the eastern shore of Topock Marsh about five miles north of Golden Shores.  It was established in 1956 to provide RV, camping and boating accommodations on the Marsh.  The Landing offers about 74 for-fee full hook-up RV sites and 30 for-fee primitive camp sites, a small store, a community building, no-fee boat launching, and a small marina.  Camp sites can be used by permit for up to thirty days.  RV's wider than 96 inches (not including slide-outs) are prohibited, as are RV's greater than 40 feet in length.  Rates and fees were not available on-line at printing time, nor was the name of the new concessionaire.  More information about the Landing can be obtained by calling the Needles office of the Havasu NWR at 760-326-3853.

 

The heart of Golden Shores may well be the Brig. General Clifford H. Shuey VFW, Post 6036.  The Post offers regularly scheduled events, cheap snacks at the canteen, a Men's and Women's auxiliary, community service announcements, and more.

 

 

Downstream River Mileage Chart Needles to Castle Rock Bay (Arizona Side)

From	To	Distance (Mi.)
Needles CA	Topock Marsh Inlet	1.86
Topock Marsh Inlet	N. Boundary Lake Havasu NWR	2.04
N. Boundary Lake Havasu NWR	Topock Marsh/Sacramento Wash Outlet	8.3
Topock Marsh/Sacramento Wash Outlet	AT&SF Railroad Bridge	0.04
AT&SF Railroad Bridge	I-40 Bridge/Topock AZ	0.06
I-40 Bridge/Topock AZ	Old Highway Bridge	0.04
Old Highway Bridge	Devil's Elbow	5.26
Devil's Elbow	Blankenship Bend	5.6
Blankenship Bend	Castle Rock Bay	3.1
Total Mileage - Needles to Castle Rock Bay		27.06

 

Back on I-40, we ease into Needles and the end of our tour.

 

Composite River Mileage Table, Needles to the International Border

(Overhead lines/gas lines excluded)

Point	Side of River	Mi. From Needles	Mi. From Border
Needles	CA	0	246.2
Needles Marina	CA	0.6	245.6
Needles Bridge (Road)	Over	1.84	244.36
Topock Marsh Inlet Channel	AZ	1.86	244.34
N. Boundary Lake Havasu National Wildlife Refuge	AZ	3.9	242.3
Beale Slough Outlet	CA	8.4	237.8
Park Moabi Inlet	CA	10.1	236.1
Park Moabi Outlet	CA	11.3	234.9
Topock Marsh Outlet/Sacramento Wash	AZ	12.2	234.0
AT&SF Railroad Bridge	Over	12.24	233.96
I-40 Bridge/Topock AZ	Over/AZ	12.3	233.9
Old Highway Bridge	Over	12.34	233.86
Trails Arch Bridge	Over	12.55	233.65
Mohave Wash	CA	14.3	231.9
Stream Gauge	AZ	15.2	231.0
Devil's Elbow	(Lake Waters)	17.6	228.6
Trampas Wash	CA	20.7	225.5
Blankenship Bend	(Lake Waters)	23.2	223.0
Castle Rock Bay	AZ	26.3	219.9
Clear Bay	CA	26.9	219.3
Jops Landing	AZ	27.5	218.7
N. Boundary Chemehuevi Indian Reservation	CA	28.8	217.4
Boundary Lake Havasu National Wildlife Refuge	AZ	28.8	217.4
Catfish Bay	CA	28.9	217.3
Boundary Lake Havasu National Wildlife Refuge	AZ	30.6	215.6
Havasu Landing	CA	32.2	214.0
Chemehuevi Wash	CA	32.8	213.4
Site Six Resort	AZ	35.2	211.0
Thompson Bay/Lake Havasu City	AZ	36.7	209.5
Copper Canyon	CA	38.6	207.6
Havasu Palms Resort	CA	42.2	204.0
Whipple Wash/Bay	CA	42.3	203.9
Steamboat Cove	AZ	43.3	202.9
S. Boundary Chemehuevi Indian Reservation	CA	44.6	201.6
Black Meadow Landing	CA	48.2	198.0
Cattail Cove State Park	AZ	49.6	196.6
S. Boundary Lake Havasu State Park	AZ	50.7	195.5
Gene Wash	AZ	52.8	193.4
Bill Williams River	AZ	53.4	192.8
Parker Dam	Across	53.9	192.3
Parker Dam Stream Gauge	CA	54.0	192.2
Parker Dam Camp	CA	54.7	191.5
Eureka Wash	CA	55.2	191.0
Monkey's Head Wash	AZ	55.2	191.0
Giers Wash	AZ	56.5	189.7
Buckskin Mountain State Park	AZ	58.6	187.6
Copper Basin Wash	CA	60.0	186.2
Eagle Wash	AZ	60.9	185.3
Ah Villa County Park	AZ	61.7	184.5
Empire Landing Recreation Site	CA	62.2	184.0
Bennett Wash	CA	64.4	181.8
Boat Canals/Harbor	AZ	64.5	181.7
Osborne Wash	AZ	66.5	179.7
Headgate Rock Dam Earthfill Section	Across	68.3	177.9
Headgate Rock Dam Spillway	AZ	68.5	177.7
AT&SF Railroad Bridge	Over	69.95	176.25
Earp/Hwy 62 Bridge	CA/Over	70.0	176.2
Stream Gauge	AZ	70.9	175.3
Upper End Deer Island Backwater	AZ	74.2	172.0
Point	Side of River	Mi. From Needles	Mi. From Border
Big River Boat Camp	CA	75.1	171.1
Lower End Deer Island Backwater	AZ	77.1	169.1
Vidal Wash	CA	80.1	166.1
Bouse Wash	AZ	82.2	164.0
Agnes Wilson Bridge	Over	82.9	163.3
Channel to Lost Lake	CA	86.4	159.8
Upper End No Name Lake	AZ	90.7	155.5
Lower End No Name Lake	AZ	92.0	154.2
Big Wash	CA	93.9	152.3
Waterwheel Resort	CA	94.2	152.0
Slaughter Tree Wash	CA	99.2	147.0
Upper End Hall Island	CA	99.8	146.4
Upper End Horse Island	CA	101.5	144.7
Lower End Horse Island	CA	102.7	143.5
Lower End Hall Island	CA	102.8	143.4
Blythe Boat Club	CA	109.8	136.4
Palo Verde Diversion Dam	Across	112.4	133.8
Tyson Wash	AZ	113.2	133.0
Upper End Mayflower County Park	CA	117.8	128.4
Lower End Mayflower County Park	CA	118.2	128.0
Cinnabar Wash	AZ	124.3	121.9
Blythe Marina	CA	124.8	121.35
I-10 Bridge/Ehrenberg	Over/AZ	124.9	121.3
McIntyre County Park	CA	132.4	113.7
Pete's Wash	AZ	133.0	113.2
Mohave Wash	AZ	135.9	110.3
Mule Wash	AZ	139.2	107.0
Horace Miller County Park	CA	139.58	106.62
Taylor Ferry	Across	139.59	106.61
Riverside/Imperial County Line	CA	139.6	106.6
Gould Wash	CA	140.3	105.9
Farmer's Toll Bridge	Over	142.05	104.15
Palo Verde/Oxbow Lake Inlet	CA	145.1	101.1
Upper Cibola Bridge	Over	146.1	100.1
Palo Verde/Oxbow Lake Outlet/Boat Ramp	CA	146.2	100.0
N. Boundary Cibola National Wildlife Refuge	AZ	149.9	96.3
Lower Cibola Bridge	Over	152.6	93.6
Cibola Lake Inlet	AZ	156.3	89.9
Old River Channel/Walters Camp	CA	157.9	88.3
Cibola Lake Outlet	AZ	158.8	87.4
S. Boundary Cibola NWR/N. Boundary Imperial NWR	Across	160.3	85.9
Turnaround Wash/Walker Lake	CA	160.6	85.6
Clip Wash	AZ	161.4	84.8
Draper Lake/Wash	CA	163.7	82.5
Lighthouse Rock	AZ	164.4	81.8
Velian Wash	CA	167.0	79.2
Julian Wash	CA	168.5	77.7
N. Boundary Picacho State Recreation Area	CA	170.8	75.4
Para Wash	CA	171.1	75.1
4-S Ranch	CA	172.2	74.0
Gavilan Wash	CA	172.7	73.5
Carrizo Wash	CA	173.3	72.9
Bear Canyon	CA	173.9	72.3
Adobe Lake	AZ	174.7	71.5
Red Cloud/Black Rock Wash	AZ	175.5	70.7
Norton's Lake	AZ	176.5	69.7
Taylor Lake/White Wash	CA	177.2	69.0
Picacho Campground/Boat Ramp	CA	177.9	68.3
Little Picacho Wash	CA	178.1	68.1
Marcus Wash	CA	179.2	67.0
S. Boundary Picacho State Recreation Area	CA	179.3	66.9
Point	Side of River	Mi. From Needles	Mi. From Border
Island Lake	AZ	179.6	66.6
Sortan Wash	AZ	179.9	66.3
Arrasta Wash	AZ	180.2	66.0
Devil's Canyon	CA	183.1	63.1
Clear Lake/Yuma Wash	AZ	183.8	62.4
Indian Wash	AZ	186.2	60.0
Boundary Imperial National Wildlife Refuge	CA	187.6	58.6
Ferguson Lake/Wash	CA	188.7	57.5
Boundary Imperial National Wildlife Refuge	CA	189.6	56.6
Martinez Lake	AZ	189.9	56.3
Fisher's Landing	AZ	190.2	56.0
Squaw Lake/Senator Wash	CA	196.0	50.2
Imperial Dam	Across	197.0	49.2
Boundary Yuma Proving Grounds	AZ	197.6	48.6
Gila Sluiceway	AZ	197.7	48.5
N. Boundary Mittry Lake Wildlife Area	AZ	198.2	48.0
Boundary Yuma Proving Grounds	AZ	199.8	46.4
S. Boundary Mittry Lake Wildlife Area	AZ	201.5	44.7
Laguna Dam	Across	203.0	43.2
Laguna Dam South Recreation Area	AZ	203.7	42.5
Gila River	AZ	212.0	34.2
St. Thomas Mission	CA	215.64	30.56
Yuma Territorial Prison	AZ	215.64	30.56
Southern Pacific Railroad Bridge	Across	215.65	30.55
I-8 Highway Bridge	Across	215.66	30.54
Yuma City Limit	AZ	217.6	28.6
Gadsden AZ	AZ	240.1	6.1
International Border	Across	246.2	0.0